Gastronomical Odyssey in the Apoxyomenos Museum in Mali Lošinj – a feast presented by chef Adrijano Nikolić and restaurant Za Kantuni

Since the unique ancient bronze statue of an athlete was found in the seabed between the islands of Vela Orjula and Lošinj in 1996, which is estimated to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC, Apoxyomenos has become an inspiration for the people of Lošinj for numerous tourism activities. After appearing in exhibitions around the world, he has found his home in Mali Lošinj, at the Apoxyomenos Museum, which will celebrate its tenth anniversary next year. He has also become a culinary inspiration for many. For years they have been organising workshops where participants learn to cook according to ancient recipes, and dinners with dishes from the time when Greek and Roman ships sailed the channel between the islands of Lošinj and Cres. The bronze statue found in the sea dates from one of those ships, from the time when ancient life flourished on the islands – of which there are still numerous traces today. Ancient culinary art translated into modern times began with Lošinj chef Adrijano Nikolić, the author of the book ‘Apoxyomenos’Gastronomic Story’. The book is the result of Nikolić’s many years of research of the life and diet of the ancient Greeks, studying the ingredients and the methods of food preparation. Ancient Greek cookbooks did not exist in the form we know today, but Greek habits remained recorded in epics, dramas, poems, travelogues, philosophical treatises, and the writings of doctors and naturalists. Professor Lidija Kosmos assisted Nikolić in researching and studying all these documents.

For years, this book has been the drive for the organisation of various gastronomic events in Mali Lošinj, a town that this year celebrates 140 years of organised tourism. Thus, on September 11, 2025, at the opening of the Festival Taste the Mediterranean – an international festival of food, wine, gastronomy, indigenous products, cultural heritage and Mediterranean way of life – Adrijano Nikolić and the restaurant Za Kantuni will prepare a banquet with the dishes from the Apoxyomenos’ ancient cuisine.

Grain, olives and wine are the core of the ancient cuisine, the so-called Gaia’s mythical triad (Gaia – Mother Earth provided these fruits every year), which, along with the abundance of sun, fish and other gifts of the sea, has become the foundation of the modern Mediterranean diet. And as we know, this is the healthiest way to eat – especially if it is applied according to the famous Greek saying from ancient times “Métron áriston!” (All good things, in moderation!). So, moderation in food and drink is a prerequisite for health and a long life.

The statue of Apoxyomenos represents a 192 cm tall athlete, who uses a scraper to clean the grease, the dust and the sweat from his body after a competition or training. Athletes like him were the epitome of health and a well-thought-out diet, which initially consisted of bread, honey, dried fruits, vegetables and fish, and when they needed more energy, meat (beef, pork or deer) was gradually added to the menu, most often roasted on a spit or on a grill, flavoured with herbs. The menu included various legume dishes, wheat, barley, barley cake, spelt bread, various fruits, honey and goat cheese, which were melted by heating before eating. To increase energy, they were given a sweet cake or cake with cottage cheese, honey and almonds.

All of the aforementioned foods were also used on the island of Lošinj during the time of Apoxyomenos. For breakfast, people would eat barley cake, dates, figs, or just bread and wine (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2, in accordance with the advice on moderation). For lunch, they would eat barley soup or barley bread and boiled vegetables, while dinner was more plentiful and consisted of fish, sausages, cheeses, bread, nuts and honey. For special banquets they prepared the meat from oxen, rams, goats, poultry, thrushes, quail, rabbits and other types of game. They cooked chickpeas, lentils, peas and broad beans. Honey, which was used as a sweetener, was precious in ancient Greece – primarily as a medicinal product. The term “honeymoon” originates from that era, because they would give honey-based drinks to the newlyweds during the first month of their life together, so that they would be full of strength and energy and could have offspring. In addition to historical information, “Apoxyomenos’ Cookbook” contains 90 recipes of the dishes prepared in antiquity, and chef Nikolić took care to use only authentic ingredients from that era. Following the same principle – ingredients used in ancient Greece – he created a banquet for the opening of the Festival Taste the Mediterranean. Here’s how Adriano Nikolić, with the help of the team of the restaurant Za Kantuni came up with an ancient feast…

APPETIZERS Curd and chicory “strudel” coated with olive oil and sprinkled with sesame *mackerel with oregano in vine leaves *fish balls *half a small pastry with pigeon meat *”strudel” with onion slices, olives and sheep’s cheese *Retsina wine

SNACKS Fried chickpeas *roasted black olives in wine *salted sardine fillets with halves of small pastries *olive spread *lentil dumplings with saffron and prosciutto *’dry’ pea cream *feta cheese with diced melon, sprinkled with oregano and drizzled with olive oil

FISH DISHES Octopus with onions under a baking bell *braised tuna * scampi with porcini mushrooms *grilled scallops, mussels and sea urchins

MEAT DISHES Boar stew *sausages with black beans and leeks *roasted suckling pig with broad bean cream

BAKER PRODUCTS Pie with olive oil, sage and garlic powder *white pizza *barley bread *rye pie *cheese pie *round yeast dough